According
to one of our divers, who has dived extensively around the world, the diving at
Manado was probably the best he had ever enjoyed.
Diving
We only have experience of one operator, and there are quite a few in the area, however, the Thalassa dive center, www.thalassa.net, struck us as a highly professional outfit with an enthusiastic, friendly and very knowledgeable staff. santhal@manado.wasantara.net.id
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boats are spacious and comfortable and have plenty of shade. The local dive
guides selected excellent locations and seemed to know exactly what critter
lived in which coral. I’m sure if we could have gone deep enough they would
have shown us a coelacanth. (This pre-historic ‘extinct’ fish hit the
headlines in 1938 when a specimen was caught off Madagascar. The only other
location where the fish, locally called raja laut, have been caught since
was in the Bunakan National Park, Manado in 1997). |
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As
was explained clearly by one of the instructors, the diving off Manado falls
into several categories. Muck diving on the sandy slopes and in the poseidonia
grass beds, wall diving with 40 metre visibility and currents about as strong as
you would want, and wrecks. There are several diving areas. The western isles,
for currents and drop-offs; the northern isles for spectacular russet-hued soft
corals and gorgonians, and ‘Darwinian’ muck diving south of Manado.
| Muck Diving
Everything's here in Manado and more and more species get identified each year. It's a macro (muck diver's) paradise. |
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| Reef Diving
Giant frog fish, ribbon eels and snake eels are all to be found on the reef. |
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| Drift Diving
The first picture shows the reef, and the second what happens when you turn the corner! Note the horizontal exhaust(ed) bubbles. |
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At least it attracts the big boys. |
| Basalt Diving
Note the change to striking oranges, yellows and russet hues. Don't forget to watch your hands however, that's as nasty an Inimicus didactylus as I've seen for a while. |
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| Wreck Diving
Without a good old reciprocating steam engine, life underwater gets dull. This wreck had two! |
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Accommodation
The
dive centre lies beside the Santika resort
www.santika-resort.com , a
picturesque arrangement of rooms and chalets dominated by a huge tree that is
quite a landmark from offshore. By the standards of the Far East, the Santika
resort is expensive with double rooms costing from US$ 55 to US$ 85 per night
B&B, however, I guess the sort of view commanded by the resort (above)
demands a premium. There are some local guest houses that offer better value for
money.
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Getting
there The introduction by Malaysian Airlines of a direct KK – Manado twice weekly flight makes travel to and from Brunei or Miri relatively simple. The connections work better into Miri but MAS will offer free accommodation in KK if you have to overnight in and out of Brunei. The flights cost between BND 750 – 850 return. |
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Security
The
emptiness of the resort, the few other dive boats and the echoing spaces on the
MAS 737 testify to the nervous traveller's pre-occupation with perceptions. Sure
the Indonesian army have just sent in 2000 troops to quell a fairly bloody riot
in Sulawesi, however, that was 800 km from the resort! Nevertheless, security
was strict at the resort and the airport.
And finally, the critical question.
Would we return to Manado? A resounding YES to the Thalassa Dive Centre
although
we might try a guest house that some of our party used and thoroughly
recommended.
