Malapascua
Exotic Island Dive & Beach Resort
Dive
the wreck of the 'Oakita Maru'
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The
island of Malapascua lies just off the northern end of Cebu in the
Philippines. It is justly famous for its regular sightings of thresher
sharks, and sporadic sightings of hammerheads and rays. However, there is
just so much more to this small tropical paradise. The limestone islands
offer a fascinating underwater topography with caves and massive boulders.
World War II and some more recent wrecks are easily accessible, and even
the house reef some 400 metres offshore, is host to ghost-pipe fish,
seahorses and many of the muck-divers’ favourite denizens, but without
the muck!
Malapascua:
13 hours from Miri to the resort, but well worth the journey.
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The resort is
friendly and cheaper than the Malaysian resorts, however, the
air-conditioned rooms are smaller than those in Kapalai (which to be fair
are huge), and a bit more basic than Mataking for example. The tap water
is brackish (depending on the amount of recent rainfall). In my opinion
the great bar / restaurant on the beach makes the place, and forms a
natural centre for the divers. Before we even begin to discuss diving,
forget tepid buffets of monotonous rice, boiled veggies and calamari or
chicken. If you elect to have full board, then you eat from a
comprehensive a la carte menu that is superb.
The dive shop
sits on the other side of the restaurant from the rooms and has tanks and
racks to store and clean gear.
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The resort is
owned by Dick de Boer, and there’s a host of dive guides and
administrative staff, the ‘front woman’ being Lorenza, with whom we
emailed and arranged the whole trip. Of course, one of the reasons we
chose to visit Malapascua was to see our old friends Terry
and Tracy Dukes. Tracy is now a PADI Course Director, and Terry, a
PADI and IANTD instructor, runs the technical diving. There’s a limited
supply of twin-sets and trimix, but nitrox is readily available.
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Wrecks,
Caves and BIG SHARKS
There's
something for everybody here. There are several wrecks. The
"Oakita Maru" lying in 52 metres, the more remote
"Dona Marilyn", and the "Tapilon Wreck" (below)
in 28 metres. The island of Gato has a cave that runs through
one corner (right) and,
of course, the Thresher Sharks of Monad Shoals.
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On Monad Shoals, 3 - 5 metre Thresher Sharks loom out of the early morning
gloom, making the effort to get up at 5 am and the 30 minute trip to the
seamount all worthwhile,
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The
surprisingly good HOUSE REEF
(5
- 12 metres)
400
metres offshore lies the House Reef. In essence this is gently sloping
sand, populated by a few natural coral bommies and many unnatural blocks,
frames and even jeepneys! It attracts everything, from giant cuttlefish to
seahorses, shamefaced crabs to large cobias.
 
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The dive
boats are Filipino bancas built in various sizes and powered by ex-truck
engines of diverse size and enthusiasm. They are spacious, shaded and form
a good dive platform, the only problem with the outrigger hull design
being that transfer to and from the shore is by a careful balancing act
across a plank leading down from the bow.
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Travel: Miri
– KK – Cebu works fine with Malaysian Airlines on Thursdays and Sundays.
There’s a three hour wait at KK both ways. The minibus ride from Cebu to the
northern coast is long, and ultimately a rather rough three and a half hours,
but sleep or a good book makes it tolerable. The transfer to the boat at the end
of the bus ride, is hairy at low tide. Remember that in the Philippines, if
anybody lifts a bag for you, it costs PHP 10 per bag (OK that’s only 30 Bcents
but it’s as well to know). Departure tax from Cebu airport is PHP 550 or US$10
in cash. The last 40 minutes by boat to Malapascua is at last relaxing, and a
glass (or more) of San Miguel on arrival restores the spirit after the 13 hour
journey from Miri.
Contact:
Lorenza is the organizer for the resort (Malapascua@softhome.net)
and prices are available on www.malapscua.net.
Roughly speaking, four nights air-con room, full board, three days diving at
three dives a day cost US$ 330 per head in a twin-bedded room. There’s a few
extras like US$ 71 minibus transfer and marine park fees, but it’s excellent
value for money.
Caution:
Don’t buy PHP (pesos) at the HSBC unless you enjoy paying 30% bank
charges. Use the ATM at Cebu airport. You can pay at the resort by credit card
but they do charge 6%. I’d simply carry US$ in cash next time. All the diving
is by banca, the near-shore area being predominantly sea grass and sea urchins.
Snorkelling is not really much of an option at any of the sites for non-diving
friends. Take a supply of OFF; there are flies around and you are land-based
after all.
Summary:
Excellent diving from a small but friendly and very pleasant resort. I
wish I could have stayed the full week.
